$$$ingapore

Wow, Singapore is expen$ive! Of course, that's to be expected from SE Asia's most modern city, and some even say that it could be the world's most modern city by 2030.  This island city-state is like a fairy tale land.  It's spotlessly clean, safe, and organized, and the entire time I was walking around, I felt like I was in a theme park (a theme park with a $500 fine for chewing gum or bringing it into the country...give me a minute while I throw away that pack of Extra in my purse....).  It's more western than a lot of cities in the US, and the fact that it's an economic giant is evidenced by the fact that there are men in suits (from all over the world) lunching around town as they take a break from their professional conferences.  For a visitor though, Singapore is a mecca for eating, drinking, shopping, and enjoying all things trivial and vacation-related; I loved this place, and going back to Philadelphia after being here is going to feel like a serious downgrade (save the Philly jokes...I'm allowed to make fun of it because I'm from there).

The area along the river is filled with awesome bars and restaurants; I really wished my friends from home were here to experience the scene with me

Some skyline shots

The marina bay waterfront area is probably the most well-known part of Singapore.  It is dominated by the incredible Marina Bay Sands Hotel and Casino, a 5-star hotel that would put similar hotels to shame http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-1289194/Marina-Bay-Sands-resort-opens-Singapore.html

MBS in the background

The Merlion

Had to pay $20 to get up to the top level and couldn't even get into the pool area (for hotel guests only).  No worries; a bunch of businessmen were there for happy hour and I got two free drinks out of the deal.  No pictures though...one guy said, "I don't want any pictures on Facebook."  Ha!

Crazy rooftop infinity pool at MBS

I spent a few days navigating the metro and checking out all of the major parts of the city (Riverwalk, Marina Bay, Orchard Street for shopping, Chinatown, Little India, the Muslim area called Kampong Glam, etc), and then on my last day, I went to Sentosa Island.  Talk about being in a fairy tale land!  The island is one big theme park, complete with man-made beaches, a Universal Studios, a wavepark, an underwater world, and many other money-sucking attractions.  Everything is so ridiculously expensive there, so after exploring the place for a bit and paying $30 to experience two, 15 minute 4-D movies (worth the $; it's a 3-D movie that sprays the audience with water, jerks your chair around, blows wind at you...pretty cool), I hit the beach and then made my way back to the mainland.

So, that's Singapore!  I will definitely be coming back here.  I think it was a good idea to visit Singapore last, just in time to ease me back into the western world!  My plane leaves for the US in a few hours, and it's so hard for me to believe that it's all over.  It's been a surreal experience; I've met some fantastic people, and have been lucky enough to see and do so many amazing things.  It already feels like a dream.  Friends have started to send questions my way, and here are the top 7:

1.  Do you have any regrets about quitting your job to travel?  The only regret I have is not buying a better camera before I started.

2.  What will you miss the most?  Meeting interesting people from interesting places who are doing interesting things, palm trees and beautiful beaches, tropical fruits, endless sunny days, great street food, incredible foot massages, friendly local people, and the adventure and unique experiences that each day brings.

3.  What won't you miss?  Unreliable internet service, the lack of paper products, outrageous humidity levels, squat toilets, showers that get the entire bathroom wet, mosquitos, long bus rides, water bottles filled to the very top so that you can't help but spill them when you open them for the first time, and hearing Rihanna, Adele, Bob Marley, and LMFAO 24 hours a day, 7 days a week.

The unofficial National Anthem of Thailand and the rest of SE Asia

4.  Have you changed?  Hmm...don't know...maybe a little?  I'm still the same person, but I guess I'm more appreciative of the things I have, a little more laid back, and definitely more spontaneous.

5.  Would you teach English again?  Never say never, but unlikely.  Once is enough I think!

6.  What was your favorite place you visited?  This one is really tough.  I did so many different kinds of things, and it's hard to compare apples to oranges to bananas.  Off the top of my head, some natural highlights were Mt. Bromo in Indonesia, Nangyuan in Thailand, and Sapa in Vietnam.  Some partying highlights were the Full Moon Party for New Year's Eve in Thailand and the Rugby 7s' competition in Hong Kong.

7.  Now what?  Great question.  Know anyone who's hiring, particularly for something starting after Labor Day? 

That's all she wrote!  This blog was hard for me to keep up with at many points, but it was a labor of love, and now I have the best souvenir ever.  I hate to say it, but this time, there will be no next time...so for the last time, let me say.....Sawatdee kaaaaahhhhhh!!!!

Malaysia, Truly Asia

I've seen this commercial a million times, hence this post's title

Malaysia is incredible.  The people here are, by far, the friendliest I have met in Asia (people say hi to you on the street for no reason...not even trying to sell you stuff!),  English is widely spoken (former British colony), and I simply love the huge fusion of cultures, foods, and traditions.  There are three main ethnic groups in Malaysia (Chinese, Indian, and Malay), and the country prides itself on the fact that all three and their respective religions live in harmony.  The 'Colours of Malaysia' are definitely vibrant!

After Morgan and I split up, I was feeling like a weary traveler.  After 4.5 months of living in Thailand and traveling every weekend, and 2.5 months on the road moving quickly from place to place, I was pretty burnt out.  I booked myself a room in a well-known party hostel in Kuala Lumpur, but canceled it shortly afterward because at this stage of my travels, I wasn't really in the mood to be in that sort of environment.  I got lucky and found a 4-star, centrally located hotel for only $15 more a night (LUXURY!), and it was at that point that I knew that I had transformed from a traveler to a tourist for a good portion of the remainder of my trip.  I've spent the past 10 days sightseeing, relaxing, and going to bed in a room with consistent water pressure, bright lighting, and walls which aren't paper thin; I cannot say that I've had one regret about ending my time in Asia this way!

Kuala Lumpur is an active and extremely modern city; a sight for sore eyes after Cambodia.  I stayed within walking distance of the city's shopping district (Bukit Bintang), and it's here that I found huge malls and high-end stores lined up one after the other.  The city has numerous notable landmarks and ethnic neighborhoods, and I spent a good part of my first day walking the entire city.  I left my hotel room at 11:00am and didn't come back until 12:00am that night; it was an exhausting but really fun day!

The Menara KL is one of the main structures in the city's skyline

A view of the city and the famous Petronas Towers (world's tallest twin towers and formerly the world's tallest skyscrapers) from the top of Menara

Even though I had seen the city's view from the Menara, I still had to go up the twin towers and see the view as well.

In the skybridge that connects the two towers

Bukit Bintang street

Batu Caves- right outside of KL- had to climb 200+ stairs to see the temples in the cave

In the center of the city is an open area called Merdeka Square, which is surrounded by several historical buildings.  I got lucky again because the Board of Tourism was holding their annual 'Colours of Malaysia' Parade that weekend (hence my getting home at midnight on my first night).  This parade rivaled any Disney World parade, complete with floats, dancing, music, light show, and a spectacular fireworks show at the end. 

I love that I just happen to stumble upon this event!

After KL, I headed to the beautiful island of Langkawi, easily one of Malaysia's best known destinations.  I stayed on the island's busiest beach (Pantai Cenang), but similar to Cambodia's beaches, it was pretty quiet (it's now considered the rainy/off-season in most SE Asian countries, even though it's still 90 degrees and sunny for a good portion of the days).  If you are the kind of person who likes having a beautiful beach all to yourself, then visit SE Asia from May-September!

This would be one of my last SE Asian beach experiences.  Goodbye palm trees!  It's back to the Atlantic Ocean I go very soon.

Cable car view over the island

After seven days of going over my $ limit and doing my own thing, I was now ready to socialize a bit.  I headed to the island of Penang, where I booked a room in a cute, friendly guesthouse in the colonial capital of Georgetown.  The characteristic streets are filled with historic buildings, temples, and mosques, and are easily walkable within a few hours.  I also checked out Gurney Plaza (huge waterfront mall) and the prettiest beach on the island (Batu Ferringhi), where the main beachfront street is lined with 4-star hotels and resorts.

Met Rich from Canada at the guesthouse and he was my city-touring partner/map navigator for the day.  Took this picture on the Georgetown promenade.  He was also my partner in crime in sneaking up to the city viewpoint that was closed for construction.  Look for us on 'Locked Up in Malaysia.'

I love this!  Real bike with painting on the wall

What the????  Apparently, some Armenian merchants settled here back in the day.  Who knew?

Mosque in town

Beach in Penang

Tonight, I met up with my friend Nick for dinner; I met Nick in Indonesia, and he was born and currently lives/works here in Penang.  He took me to a great waterfront restaurant for dinner and then to a unique coffee place for drinks and dessert http://www.chinahouse.com.my/.  It's always great to know a local; thanks for the hospitality Nick! 

Malaysia was definitely an unexpected highlight of my SE Asian travels! I have a feeling that I'm going to love Singapore too, as I've heard that it's the most modern city in SE Asia.  I guess I'll find out tomorrow!  Until next time....Sawatdee kah!

Congratulations Cambodia, You Are Country #30! Come On Down!

This week, I hit a traveling milestone; I’ve officially visited 30 countries!  Here's to the next 30 (probably sans backpack though)!

Morgan and I started our Cambodian travels in the country’s capital, Phnom Penh.  Since being in SE Asia, I’ve heard mixed reviews about Cambodia; some people love it and some people hate it, and I had a feeling that I would fall into the latter group.  Cambodia is a regular on the travelers’ circuit, so there was no way that I was going to miss it, but I also wasn’t super excited about coming here.  In my mind, I pictured a poor country that was dirty and chaotic.  I’ve been pleasantly surprised. 

Lots of cafes and restaurants across the street from the river

Independence Monument area- me on the steps of one of the many monuments throughout the city that represent freedom

One of the temples around the Palace.  The Palace was actually closed when we went to visit.  Ah well.

Out in PP

You would never know it judging by all of the cheerful people that you meet in Cambodia, but the country's recent history is extremely sad.  In 1975, a radical Cambodian political group called the Khmer Rouge (lead by Pol Pot) started a mass genocide against their own people with the goal of killing the country’s educated and elite and returning the country to an agrarian society.  It’s estimated that 2-3 million Cambodians died under this regime.  http://www.cambodia.org/khmer_rouge/ Today, the Choeung Ek ‘Killing Fields’, where 17,000 civilians were kept, killed, and buried in mass graves, serve as one of the most notable places to honor those who died during this tragedy.  We took an audio tour around the Killing Fields, and the things we heard and saw were bone chilling.  We also visited the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum, which was originally a primary school that the Khmer Rouge took over and used to torture and confine their victims.

At the Killing Fields- this stupa, which is meant to honor the victims, holds 17 levels of skulls and bones recovered from the grounds

Sorry if this picture offends...

Many sights like this around the Fields- so sad

Though PP was intense, we enjoyed our time there, and next headed to Siem Reap, a cute little town with some good markets and a ‘Pub Street’ filled with bars and restaurants.  Siem Reap is home to one of Cambodia’s prime attractions, Angkor Wat.  Angkor Wat, the largest Hindu/Buddhist Temple complex in the world, is set in an archaeological park which also houses a bunch of other temples.  We spent 1.5 days exploring the ruins in this area (including getting up at 4:30am to see the sunrise), and it’s fair to say that we were completely ‘templed out’ by the time we were finished!   

Sunrise at AW

Ta Prohm- 'Lara Croft’s Tomb Raider' was filmed inside this temple.  The trees and tree roots growing all over the place are surreal.  I think I was more impressed with this temple than with Angkor Wat.  Blasphemy!

Another main temple, Bayon (Angkor Thom).  The Khmer Rouge chopped off some of the heads of these statues when they took control.

Out on the Pub Street- good times here, including a crazy bar called Angkor What?

We also visited the Landmine Museum, which was started by a guy named Aki Ra, a former child member of Khmer Rouge, who has dedicated his life to removing landmines from Cambodian fields.  Morgan and I actually watched a movie about him a few days before, so it was very cool that we were able to visit his museum http://cambopedia.com/2010/11/cambodias-perfect-soldier-aki-ra.html  It's worth checking out his film if you have 50 minutes to spare.

Reaching our history and culture max, we decided to spend our last four days in Cambodia at the beach.  After a completely hellish overnight bus ride (my last one...EVER), we ended up in Sihanoukville.  There are many beaches in this area, so we decided to spend two days in Serendipity Beach and two days in Otres Beach.  Serendipity (the main backpacker beach) has a promenade that runs along the beach and also a 'beach street', both of which are filled with restaurants and bars.  Otres Beach is smaller and prettier, but more remote and set along a dirt road.  We've had a pretty relaxed time here; it's rained quite a bit and overall, both places have been fairly quiet.

After three weeks, Morgan and I are now heading our separate ways.  On Friday, she is off to Bangkok and I am heading to Malaysia!  Ten days there, three days in Singapore, and then HOME!  I am SO ready to come home in some respects but not ready in others; I guess that's the way it always goes.  I plan on making the most of my last two weeks here though, regardless of how I'm feeling!  Until next time....Sawatdee kah!

Ho Chi Minh City (not Saigontinople)

The reference for this post's title if you didn't know....

So, I kind of love Vietnam. It’s beautiful both naturally and architecturally, and the Vietnamese people are really nice (contrary to what I had heard from numerous people).  Many other westerners have asked us if we have felt uncomfortable or any sort of hostility as Americans here, and I can honestly say that my experience with the Vietnamese has been really positive (even after we tell them that we are from the USA). We’ve met some great people along the way, and have had some ridiculous escapades.  I hope that I can transfer at least a bit of the hilarity through this post.

After leaving Hoi An, we headed down the coast to a beach town called Nha Trang.  NT has a long, beautiful beach, and is more built up/Western than I had expected (there’s a Novotel across the street from the beach).  There’s also a palm-tree lined highway-type road that runs along the water, and it reminded me of any Florida or SoCal beach town. There are lots of things to do in Nha Trang, and we took advantage of as many of them as possible.

The beach

A short gondola ride across the bay and you arrive at Nha Trang’s answer to Disney World, Vinpearl.  It’s more of a kids’ park (with smaller rides), but there’s also a waterpark, and a really pretty stretch of beach with crystal clear water and white soft sand.  After a visit to the aquarium and couple of rounds on the roller coaster, we headed to the waterpark to partake in a few slides before finally heading down to the beach to relax.  Sidenote: the park was kind of empty…like weirdly empty.  Other than a few other backpackers, Vietnamese tourists, and the obligatory Russian tourists (who are up and down the Vietnam coast; the influence is extremely noticeable), we had the whole place to ourselves. 

Just like the Hollywood sign

Morgan and all of her friends in the park

Beautiful beach in the park

We also went on the most surreal booze cruise ever; it was a mix of Asian tourists and backpackers, and the cruise involved a Vietnamese‘boy band’ playing on the boat, karaoke, impromptu entertainment by ladyboys, and a make-shift float up bar which required us all to jump off the boat and float on inner tubes. The day was so random and crazy, and I think I said more than once, “I have no idea what is going on right now!” We met some fun people on the boat though, and had a great time that night meeting up with everyone and crawling from bar to bar.

Ladyboy entertainment- you cannot make this up!

One of the islands we visited

The big one is the floating bar....

Our crew out at night

Our last day in Nha Trang, a large group of us went to the town’s mud spa. I’ve never done anything like that before, and it was really fun and different. They also have mineral water showers and a large thermal pool; really cool place to spend the afternoon for $10!!

Mud is fun!

It was time to leave Nha Trang, and Morgan and I headed even further down the coast to another beach town called Mui Ne. Mui Ne is the windsurfing/kitesurfing capital of Vietnam, but it’s a little off season now for those sports, so the town was kind of dead (again, except for tons of Russian tourists…many of the signs and menus here are written in Russian). There’s a long coastline, and the town is really spread out, magnifying the fact that it was kind of deserted. It’s kind of a shame because there were dozens of waterfront restaurants and bars that were all but empty; not sure how any of them remain in business. We managed to find a few places with crowds though, and had a fun time exploring Mui Ne’s impressive sand dunes, one of the main reasons people visit here.

Riding, sliding, and boarding down sand dunes!

Morgan

Putting my snowboarding skills to work.  I didn't actually look this good; Morgan is just talented with a camera

Chin-chin (cheers) as the Russians say!  The only other people in the bar on Sunday night; they kept buying us drinks and telling us that we were beautiful.  Eh, why not?

We are currently in Ho Chi Minh City, though it seems that most people still refer to this place as Saigon.  We arrived yesterday morning and visited the War Remnants Museum in the afternoon.  This place was really, really moving.  To see the pictures of all of injuries and casualties of the war, as well as the hundreds of children born with birth defects as a result of Agent Orange..it was definitely an intense place to spend a few hours.  We visited the Hoa Lo Prison and the Army Museum in Hanoi, but it was nothing like the Remnants Museum here in HCHC.  Really sad stuff.  Today, we visited the Cu Chi tunnels, an intricate, underground system where the Vietnamese used to hide during the war http://www.mishalov.com/Vietnam_Cu-Chi.html. Again, a really moving sight.

We went down into one of the tunnels and it was so cramped and hot!  We had to exit early.

It's been an incredible 2.5 weeks in Vietnam and I'm sad to leave.  I feel like we got a great feel for the place though and really made the most of our time in this beautiful country.  It's off to Cambodia tomorrow for more antics and adventure!  Stay tuned.  Until next time....Sawatdee kah!