Morgan and I started our Cambodian travels in the country’s capital, Phnom Penh. Since being in SE Asia, I’ve heard mixed reviews about Cambodia; some people love it and some people hate it, and I had a feeling that I would fall into the latter group. Cambodia is a regular on the travelers’ circuit, so there was no way that I was going to miss it, but I also wasn’t super excited about coming here. In my mind, I pictured a poor country that was dirty and chaotic. I’ve been pleasantly surprised.
Lots of cafes and restaurants across the street from the river
Independence Monument area- me on the steps of one of the many monuments throughout the city that represent freedom
Independence Monument area- me on the steps of one of the many monuments throughout the city that represent freedom
One of the temples around the Palace. The Palace was actually closed when we went to visit. Ah well.
Out in PP
You would never know it judging by all of the cheerful people that you meet in Cambodia, but the country's recent history is extremely sad. In 1975, a radical Cambodian political group called the Khmer Rouge (lead by Pol Pot) started a mass genocide against their own people with the goal of killing the country’s educated and elite and returning the country to an agrarian society. It’s estimated that 2-3 million Cambodians died under this regime. http://www.cambodia.org/khmer_rouge/ Today, the Choeung Ek ‘Killing Fields’, where 17,000 civilians were kept, killed, and buried in mass graves, serve as one of the most notable places to honor those who died during this tragedy. We took an audio tour around the Killing Fields, and the things we heard and saw were bone chilling. We also visited the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum, which was originally a primary school that the Khmer Rouge took over and used to torture and confine their victims.
At the Killing Fields- this stupa, which is meant to honor the victims, holds 17 levels of skulls and bones recovered from the grounds
Sorry if this picture offends...
Many sights like this around the Fields- so sad
Though PP was intense, we enjoyed our time there, and next headed to Siem Reap, a cute little town with some good markets and a ‘Pub Street’ filled with bars and restaurants. Siem Reap is home to one of Cambodia’s prime attractions, Angkor Wat. Angkor Wat, the largest Hindu/Buddhist Temple complex in the world, is set in an archaeological park which also houses a bunch of other temples. We spent 1.5 days exploring the ruins in this area (including getting up at 4:30am to see the sunrise), and it’s fair to say that we were completely ‘templed out’ by the time we were finished!
Sunrise at AW
Ta Prohm- 'Lara Croft’s Tomb Raider' was filmed inside this temple. The trees and tree roots growing all over the place are surreal. I think I was more impressed with this temple than with Angkor Wat. Blasphemy!
Another main temple, Bayon (Angkor Thom). The Khmer Rouge chopped off some of the heads of these statues when they took control.
Out on the Pub Street- good times here, including a crazy bar called Angkor What?
We also visited the Landmine Museum, which was started by a guy named Aki Ra, a former child member of Khmer Rouge, who has dedicated his life to removing landmines from Cambodian fields. Morgan and I actually watched a movie about him a few days before, so it was very cool that we were able to visit his museum http://cambopedia.com/2010/11/cambodias-perfect-soldier-aki-ra.html It's worth checking out his film if you have 50 minutes to spare.
Reaching our history and culture max, we decided to spend our last four days in Cambodia at the beach. After a completely hellish overnight bus ride (my last one...EVER), we ended up in Sihanoukville. There are many beaches in this area, so we decided to spend two days in Serendipity Beach and two days in Otres Beach. Serendipity (the main backpacker beach) has a promenade that runs along the beach and also a 'beach street', both of which are filled with restaurants and bars. Otres Beach is smaller and prettier, but more remote and set along a dirt road. We've had a pretty relaxed time here; it's rained quite a bit and overall, both places have been fairly quiet.
After three weeks, Morgan and I are now heading our separate ways. On Friday, she is off to Bangkok and I am heading to Malaysia! Ten days there, three days in Singapore, and then HOME! I am SO ready to come home in some respects but not ready in others; I guess that's the way it always goes. I plan on making the most of my last two weeks here though, regardless of how I'm feeling! Until next time....Sawatdee kah!
